Cairo, the real one
Giza at first light with the plateau closed to everyone else, and the Grand Egyptian Museum with a private slot in the Tutankhamun galleries. Then the Cairo that belongs to Cairenes: a copper workshop off al-Muizz, coffee at a hundred-year-old café, an antiques dealer who opens the back room, a rooftop over Bab Zuweila as the call to prayer overlaps from forty minarets.
- Pyramid plateau before public opening, interior of the Great Pyramid
- Grand Egyptian Museum with a curator, Tutankhamun galleries held for you
- Al-Muizz street and Khan el-Khalili with a historian and a dealer
- Dinner in a restored Mamluk house, not a hotel



